May has been favorable so far, and so I’m splitting the May hiking post into two parts, with the first one focusing on a weekend trip at the beginning of the month.
This three-day trip was a return to a place I’ve visited before – once on a one-day hike back in 2013, when the weather wasn’t very favorable. So, I was looking forward to seeing that place again and having a chance to see more. And, this time, the weather was favorable.
The first hike took us on a set of trails that follow above a valley that was flooded by building two dams in the 1970s, changing the landscape significantly. A valley full of rock formations rising above the floor now has them forming rocky shores or jutting out from the water where they once created sharp meanders in the river’s flow. The trails aren’t dense here – there’s only one bridge across the flooded valley, and the dam itself, to get from one side to another.
The trail weaves up and down, sometimes being close to the water, then rising above it. It didn’t take long to reach the first major lookout. This one is a bit more special, as it’s in one of those places where the river took a couple of tight U-turns, and the rocky landscape that created these turns isn’t fully flooded. However, the water level is high enough that this rocky outcrop, which was once the site of a small castle (abandoned in the 1400s), was turned into an island… most of the time.
As you can see in the photo above, the water level was lower at that point, so I had a daring idea: to try reaching that “island” without getting my feet wet or having to resort to swimming (which I never learned). This proved a challenge, as finding a way down to the right part of the rocky outcrop was quite a challenge – the rocks there are quite a maze, and I had to backtrack a couple of times.
Making my way using legs, hands, or crawling backwards like a crab, I made it to the thin strip of solid rock (as seen above) and crossed to the hill, making my way up to where I found some small remains of ancient masonry, as well as gaining a unique view of the landscape.
On my way back, I stopped at the rock and took the time to make a wider panorama, though standing on a rock outcrop above water made my legs shake.
And, after returning to the trail and moving on, my legs were still shaking a bit after this adventure. It took me around two hours to reach the next lookout, where a much taller rock wall rises above the river’s valley. As it was later in the day, and near a campsite, there was more activity – climbers, people taking boat rides, or just relaxing by the water.
From there, I backtracked a bit to reach a road bridge that would let me cross to the other side. It also provided further views of the landscape, including the rock formations I visited a while before. Judging by the appearance of the small island, I believe the water level was much higher by then.
Going on led me to another lookout that was across the river from the previous one, providing a limited view of said lookout and the nearby campsite.
At that point, I left official trails and made my way down quite a steep slope to make a shortcut to the rock outcrops you can see to the right in the photo above, though it was too overgrown to take good photos, and then down a set of pootpaths and forest roads to reach another site of a long-abandoned castle that remained barely above water level.
I found two short sections of masonry and strong hints of a moat, both covered by vegetation. With my last place on the list checked, I turned away from the river and headed towards the town where we were to meet up by a brewery.
The second day started with a tour of the upper dam, giving us some information not only about its construction, but also about how the pattern of using the two connected dams for electricity production changed over the years – as of now, they typically pump water from the lower to the upper reservoir during mid-day to consume excess energy from solar plants, and then use the water to generate power when the output of renewable energy sources drops.
The dam itself is around 100 meters tall, which gives a good hint at how deep the river valley was before being flooded, as some of the rock outcrops I visited the previous day rise almost as high above water level.
After the tour, I made my way across forests and fields to a place near the lower dam, which is quite interesting – unlike the woods around, this one features grassy plains on the river’s slopes, and flowers preferring warmer environments. Given the unique nature, there are two trails – lower and upper – in this area. I chose the upper to avoid having to go back up, as I had a long hike ahead, and enjoyed the views.
And, at one of the lookouts, I took a wider picture. This shows not only these rocky slopes, but also hints of the power plant in the background. After all, the dams were built mainly as a source of water for the plant’s cooling systems, acting as a multi-level failsafe mechanism.
From there, I made my way to another valley, which is very similar in nature, though this one was left in its original state, rather than being flooded. This was a relaxing walk in the section where the trail follows the river at the valley’s floor. Here, too, only a few places to cross the river exist, though a new footbridge was built in a place where you’d need to ford the river otherwise.
From there, the trail ascends above the valley, to another overlook in a couple of U-turns the river carved in the nature, which also hosted small castles in the past, likewise abandoned in the 1400s, though the ruins still provide a limited view of the deep valley.
The trail then descends back toward the valley floor, where it follows the river around more than a few steep slopes and rock outcrops.
Which, in several places, make the trail a bit more adventurous.
Eventually, it leads to the town where we were staying for the weekend, and before making my way up, I took a photo of the chateau above the town, with a hint of the old bridge as well.
The final day was a bit easier, with the hike being shorter. It also followed a river valley, though much calmer. Maybe too much, as it seemed this trail was barely used. I found more than a few hints of beavers living in this calm valley, with countless trees and branches in the water.
In the wider points, the valley created flowering fields, with their simple beauty.
But even this valley had a couple of rock formations to admire.
With the day getting warmer, I reached the town where we ended and found an ice cream stand, then went to admire the chateau park where I relaxed for a bit before it was our time to be on our way home.
Despite the unpredictable early May weather, all turned out well, and I had an enjoyable three days.
So, that’s a look back at one weekend trip from the beginning of May. The one-day hikes of this month will get their own post soon.
Tomas - the wandering dreamer 